Restoring Remco's Ginormous Boeing 727 Mainliner Commercial Jet Toy
It's been a while since I've posted, so bear with me while I get the hang of it all again.
Lemme just start by saying that I'm not an expert at restoring anything. However, I have built tons of model cars, planes and ships over the years, and I have a good eye and a steady hand. So I'm not an amateur either. This is my journey through restoring this toy. I'll be adding more step by step pictures as I gather them, but for now, here's basically how I did it.
My understanding is that this passenger jet is one of the largest toys ever made. Remco offered this 4-foot long Boeing 727 in 1968. I'm guessing they didn't make a ton of them, because they're not easy to find. Also, toys of this immense size aren't exactly easy to pack away safely, like Matchbox cars or baseball cards. So they're at a disadvantage right from the start. I've been lucky enough to find two really good examples recently that are both complete and intact. I restored one back to its original UNITED livery, and I'm gonna restore the other one at some point. I'm thinking SWISSAIR maybe, since I lived there as a kid.
If you ever actually find one with the box, it may well have escaped the ravages of time, heat, air, moisture and greasy fingers. In which case, I say, leave it alone! No restored toy is worth anywhere near the value of a nice original example.
Without the box, you'll more likely find one like this, that has yellowed, with glue marks that have browned, and decals that have faded or are missing. I have to give Remco credit for such amazing detail work on these. I mean, look at those panels and rivets! I have no idea if they're faithful to the actual 727, but they sure look great. On one hand, this model is a marvel of toy engineering, given how sturdy and detailed and well-made it was, at this scale. On the other hand, they kinda phoned-in that windshield design. We'll fix that.
The first thing I did was clean up the parts. The removable top of the tail can be submerged in warm water and soap. The fuselage and removable wing sections I would not submerge in water, because you don't want to trap water within the seams; it'll never dry properly and when you go to paint it, you'll trap moisture, and that means mold. So for the parts that can't be submerged in water, I just used a Clorox wipe to clean up the surface. The color of the fuselage and other parts may whiten up a bit, but it doesn't matter if they don't, because we'll be spraying over it anyway. Paint just needs a smooth, clean, dry surface. For the record, I've seen plenty of people use the retrobrighting technique to whiten plastic, and I'm all for it, but it requires some equipment that I don't have, and would be difficult to do with a toy of this immense size.
The next thing I looked for is any imperfections in the plastic surfaces. The detail is really good on this huge model, but there's still some flashing and extra bits here and there near the seams, that may need to be sanded down.
Remember, spray paint goes on REALLY thin, so it won't hide much other than the yellowing plastic color and brown glue marks. It won't hide gaps, scratches or dimples in the plastic, so decide how much of this stuff you want to take care of in advance.
Now it's time to decide what livery you want. I mean, the very concept of restoring something is bringing it back to its original state. So I did that with the first one. The stickers are obviously faded and torn. There's a guy on ebay who is remaking the UNITED AIRLINES stickers to the exact specifications of the original ones. I bought a set. They're self adhesive. They'll go on last. Be patient. Make sure your hands are clean and dry. They'll look amazing.
Regarding the long thick cardboard window inserts, they are unlikely to have survived intact for over 50 years. So there's another guy on ebay who has remade a limited number of the long cardboard window inserts-- in laser-cut aluminum! They're perfect too, so I bought a set from him. Get some 3mil clear acetate (roll or large pad) to cut out two strips for the window 'glass', and some GE silicone glue to hold the aluminum window strips on.When the plastic surfaces are clean and dry, and you have some big cardboard or a tarp to work on, and a location with proper ventilation, it's time to tape up the various sections of the body and other parts. I will tell you that I started by finding many reference images on the internet. This took weeks to source good high res images from good angles. I believe UNITED AIRLINES was the first airline to fly the Boeing 727 around 1963 (though I've seen evidence that it was EASTERN). Anyway, I studied the original UNITED 727 images until I was comfortable transferring that knowledge to the toy plane and separating out white from silver. The original toy was pretty faithful to the actual UNITED 727 airplane.
Plenty of reference material out there to make the model accurate. |
But I wanted to add a little bit more accurate detail, including the American flag, some engine detail, a better windshield, the silver underbelly...and even the thin yellow line that separates the white from silver. It's a bit of an art to tape up/mask off sections so the spray paint goes only where you want it to. I'll say there was some trial and error.
I used some foil tape (the wide stuff) to create 'patches' under the wings where there were areas I didn't want people to see. Two examples: There's a huge 'hole' under the body where a presentation stand was supposed to go. Since I wanted to hang this model from the ceiling in a taking-off stance, I obviously didn't need the stand and didn't want to see that giant hole, so I patched over it, as if it's not even there. The other example is the battery cover. This plane originally did two actions that I had no interest in having in my hanging model: It 'taxied' slowly, and it had what someone decided was supposed to be a jet engine sound. To me, it sounded more like a vacuum cleaner, so no love lost there. Anyway, The battery cover molds nicely over the batteries (which I obviously removed), but you have to decide if you want to see the opening 'handle' of the cover or not. Foil tape cut into a patch shape and spray paint do a great job in hiding its former life as a child's toy.
This model has several large screws that hold the wings and other parts intact. If the screws are rusty or dirty, just soak them in some hot water and mild detergent for a few hours, dry thoroughly, and maybe hit the heads with a polishing attachment on your Dremel. It'll all be covered anyway when it's sprayed, but you don't want to get in the habit of spraying over rusty screws. Ugh.
As for the wheels, I made some circular templates and sprayed on silver rims, which looks way better than just the chonky black mass that made up the two sets of double wheels. Same for the front landing gear. You'll have to mask the entire wheel sections into their compartments when you spray the underbody silver.Tada! Proper rims. Come on, tell me that doesn't look better...
And now, that windshield. As it is, it looks like a generic wraparound car windshield. It's the only part of this model that elicits a 'yeesh' from me. If you spend even a short amount of time looking at Boeing 727 windshields on the internet, you can see that they look nothing like the toy. The real 727 windshield has a unique web of segmented window sections, framed out in some alloy. When I had seen enough 727 images I sketched a flat version of the whole windshield in pencil. Then I made a cleaner drawing. Then I got the sizing right. Then I traced it over with some dark vellum that allows light through (more on that later). Then I framed it all out with thin foil tape and cut the outer edges of it all with a small paper cutting machine. It looked perfect. I cut the whole thing right down the middle so I could adjust the left and right sections up and down as they met in the middle. I super-glued it down in a few strategic places. All after the paint was done, of course. This is what a 727 windshield looks like.
A more realistic looking Boeing 727 windshield. |
Lots more pictures and details to come, but that's it for the moment. If you have any questions about materials or technique, reach out. I could talk about this stuff all day long.